An Unlikely Pair: Boccalone and Humphry Slocombe

the empty wrapper -- I love that they include an "!" in the title

I was recently with friends buying some of my all-time favorite meaty treat, mortadella, at Boccalone a couple of weeks ago when I saw the strangest thing up at the counter. Candy. Caramels specifically, so I asked the meat tender to tell me just what in the heck was going on. Turns out, these caramels are crafted by SF ice cream maker Humphry Slocombe, and made with lard from Boccalone. Holy sh*t! Caramels made with lard? We got a pack and tasted them immediately. I admit, I was skeptical about the whole idea—was it perhaps good in theory and a let-down in execution? I didn't want my expectations to be too high...


They are, in fact, amazing. (Though from our "tasting panel," one person out of four was not impressed.) The caramel is ridiculously soft. You can taste the lard--it's creamy and rich, but doesn't coat your tongue. I kept expecting to find a little piece of ham in there somewhere. I probably should not even be telling you this, considering these little nuggets are hard to get ahold of already. But just in case you're picking up a salumi cone at the Ferry Building and spot them, you'll know. Don't hesitate; when you change your mind and go back the next day... all gone.

FYI--4 pieces for $3.50

Boccalone
Ferry Building Marketplace
Shop 21
415-433-6500

Who Invited the Cheese Doodle?

So there's this guy who takes wire and everyday objects, often food items, and he makes art. Exciting? Okay, the description doesn't do the work justice, you have to see it to get it. But I think that you'll come to the following conclusion: freakin' AWESOME. Terry Border, an artist with a penchant for twisting wires around, creates clever scenes depicting the secrets of lonely lemons, the surprising affair of the cheesey poof and tater chip, and of course, what happens when legumes go bad (see zombie peanuts.) It takes the phrase “playing with your food” to a new level. Check out his book, Bent Objects: The Secret Life of Everyday Things. For an instant fix you can visit Terry's blog, Bent Objects.

Thanks to Terry for letting me use these images for your immense enjoyment.

Mixology Monday: Tea

It's the first Mixology Monday of 2010, and our hosts at Cocktail Virgin Slut have chosen tea as the theme, so as to give those of you still in holiday detox some wiggle room. Typically tea is not one of my favorite cocktail ingredients, partly because I've just never been that into tea, but also because my mind immediately jumps to trendy tragedies involving things called green tea-tinis and chai-tinis...and you get the idea. But once these unfortunate associations are cleared from the psyche, one is able to give tea the respect in deserves in a cocktail. I say this now that I've been let off the hook from figuring out what the hell I was going to make with tea.

Fortunately, I found the perfect drink idea waiting for me in this month's Food and Wine. The Philly Fish House Punch recipe from the Apothecary Bar and Lounge in Philadelphia calls for cold black tea, and it also allowed me the opportunity to experiment with punch. It seems punch is regaining popularity, and you can find it on menus at spots like Rickhouse in San Francisco. The nice thing about this punch is that it's intended to be prepared hours ahead of time, as it needs time to chill before it's served. This conveniently allows guests to serve themselves, and needless to say it's a good idea for a cocktail or dinner party.

Recipe Note: I used less sugar because I used Meyer lemons, which tend to be a bit sweeter. If you're using regular lemons, add an extra tablespoon of sugar. I aso used a combination of superfine sugar and confectioner's sugar because I have “texture issues” and was worried too much confectioner's sugar would make it a bit too chalky.

(For the original recipe in its unmolested form, go to Food and Wine Magazine online.)


Philly Fish House Punch
adapted by Alpha Cook

1 Tbsp superfine sugar
1 Tbsp confectioner's sugar
4 oz aged rum (Fleur de Cana 4 yr)
3 oz dark rum (Myer's)
4 oz brandy or cognac (I used vanilla cognac)
2 oz apricot liqueur
4 oz black tea (I used Tazo's Awake blend)
4 oz fresh lemon juice (Meyer)
4 oz cold water

Tools: funnel, *bottle with screw cap or lock top (or serving container with a small mouth), measuring cup, citrus juicer

Add the confectioner's sugar to the bottle first, using a funnel if neceessary. Then add both rums, brandy, apricot liqueur, tea and lemon juice. Close or cover the bottle and shake well, or until sugar is well mixed. Then add the cold water and shake again. Seal the bottle and place in the refrigerator until well chilled. Garnish with an orange peel.


*And of course if you don't have the right kind of bottle to mix it in, you can prepare the cocktail in a vessel capable of undergoing vigorous rounds of shaking and then transfer it to your favorite serving pitcher.

Crispex (or Chex) Senbei with Addiction Advisory

Before you even think about making this, you should just know: Addictive. As. Crack. So unless you're committed to bingeing on this stuff several times a day, don't read any further. Just walk away from the screen and go about your day. Or go back to surfing the net for porn, or whatever it is you were doing. (And by the way, I know that some of you who found this blog after a google search for King Dong were not looking for Chinese take-out in Berkeley.)

Now back to this recipe. Around the holidays, our friend Chris gave us a bag of this crunchy snack stuff (in one of those cute little X-mas bags) and said something dismissive, like, oh it's nothing much. Two days later the bag was empty. I think I broke out in a cold sweat first. Must. Have. More. That's when Chris made his move, “oh you want the recipe, that'll be...a million dollars.” He laughed an evil laugh. If we wanted the goods, we'd have to put up the cash.

Okay, I made that last part up for dramatic effect. He actually just gave the recipe to us and said that he was glad we liked it. The recipe, which we changed just slightly due to the fact that I didn't know Crispex and Chex mix were different things and I just generally have a habit of not being able to follow directions, is below. Thanks to Yamaoka for parting with his mom's awesome recipe.

Note: Chris says: “Senbei is Japanese for . . . probably something like rice cracker mix” and “also,these non-conventional measurements are my mom's, so I really can't tell you what the difference between 'heaping' and 'very heaping' is, but somehow I think you'll work it out.”

Crispex/Chex Senbei

1 box Crispex or about 7 cups Chex cereal

2/3 jar Nori Furikake** (we used JFC brand Nori Komi Furikake)
2 tsps black sesame seed

1/4 cup margarine

1/4 cup corn syrup (overflowing)

6 Tablespoons sugar (very heaping)

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 Tablespoon soy sauce (overflowing)

1 cups slivered almonds

1. Mix together the margarine, corn syrup, sugar, oil, soy sauce, and almonds over low heat until mixture is smooth and syrupy.

2. Coat large roasting pot with cooking spray and put in the cereal.

3. Pour nuts and syrup mixture over cereal and stir

4. Sprinkle with furikake and stir

5. Bake at 250 for 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes. If the mixture still seems a little wet at the end, bake it for another 10 minutes.

Let cool for at least an hour or two before serving. Cool = crunchy. For a more savory mix, use a little less sugar and a bit more soy sauce.

**Furikake is basically an all purpose seasoning used in Japanese cooking, often as an addition to rice. This particular kind contains salt, sesame seeds, and tiny little seaweed flakes. It is surprisingly tasty, considering I'm not a seaweed fan (or a fan of seaweed).

Cocktails Enhanced: Blood Orange Gastrique

I came across a tasty looking recipe on Imbibe Magazine's website, a coriander blood orange gastrique created by Anvil Bar and Refuge. (Make sure to check out their blog, Drink Dogma.) It sounded like the perfect thing to have sitting in the fridge in January, and of course it was an excuse to play with my new camera, and taking lots of photos of blood oranges sounded like fun too. As usual, I didn't read the recipe carefully before going to the store, so I had to make some substitutions, but I liked the end result, so here it is. For the original recipe, check it out on Imbibe.


Gastrique-a French term referring to the syrupy “sauce” formed by reducing a combination of vinegar/wine, sugar, and usually some type of fruit.

Spiced Blood Orange Gastrique
adapted from the Anvil Bar and Refuge

splash of fresh squeezed lemon juice
2/3 cup white sugar
water
1/3 cup + a splash white vinegar
1 + 1/2 Tbsp coriander seeds
8-10 cardamom pods, cracked open
pinch of anise seed
2/3 cup fresh squeezed blood orange juice
1 oz vodka

1. Over medium heat, add the sugar and lemon juice to a medium sauce pan, then add just enough water until the bottom of the pan is covered. If necessary, push the extra sugar that may be clinging to the sides of the pan into the water. Allow the sugar syrup to cook without stirring until the mixture begins to turn brown and slows its bubbling. (The time will probably vary depending on how much water you use.)

2. Now slowly stir in the vinegar and spices. Then gradually add the blood orange juice, stirring constantly as it reduces to a smooth, syrupy consistency. This will probably only take a few minutes more.

3. Set the reduction aside and allow it to cool. Strain the solids and add the vodka—it will act as a preservative. Store in the refrigerator in a sealed container for up to 6 weeks.

Note: Imbibe says that time affects the quality of the flavor, so make it in small batches and use as soon as possible.


Now what? Try it out in the classic Negroni, said to be named after the Italian Count Negroni. Traditionally made with equal parts gin, sweet vermouth, and Campari, the blood orange gastrique will add another layer that also compliments the bitter Campari.

The Negroni

1 oz gin
1 oz Campari
1 oz sweet vermouth
½ oz blood orange gastrique (optional)

Place all ingredients in a glass with ice, stir for 30 seconds. Strain into a highball or double rocks glass filled with ice. Garnish with an orange or lemon twist.

If a less potent cocktail is desired, top with club soda.

How To: Select, Clean, and Cook Fresh Brussels Sprouts

The Brussels sprout gets a bad rap. Even more than broccoli, Brussels sprouts are the dreaded veggie that children everywhere are purported to fear. And though I don't ever remember tasting them until just a few years ago, I think there are some unfair assumptions that I harbored without ever having tried them. One of those being that this veggie is a particularly bitter one—which is probably true if you've purchased them in a bag in the freezer aisle. Another is that they have a strong, even offensive taste. I supposed this is also true for undeveloped taste buds, which I'm sure is the reason most kids avoid them. They are also particularly vulnerable to the abuse that results when paired with the wrong seasonings or overcooked... But let's start with a clean slate. Just think of them like tiny little cabbages—and follow my advice.



Buying and Selecting: Brussels sprouts are a cold season vegetable, so you'll find them in stores late fall or early winter. Their flavor actually improves with frost and the vegetable gets sweeter. So if you see them in the summer, leave them be.

If possible, buy Brussels sprouts on the stalk. You'll find that they're better tasting, sturdier, and often appear healthier than the loose ones. In addition, buying them on the stalk is significantly cheaper, with some stalks holding several pounds of Brussels sprouts. When buying them loose, look for firm green sprouts—you don't want yellow, spotted, or loose leaves.


Prep Steps (from stalk to finish)

1. Pulling backward, remove each of the spouts—they should just snap off in your hand with a little pressure. Remove any leaves that may be yellow or spotted.


2. Put the Brussels sprouts in a bowl filled with warm water and let them soak for about 10 minutes. This will flush out the dirt and any tiny critters than may be lurking in the folds. I highly recommend not skipping this step.

3. Drain and rinse

4. This next step is optional, considering the debate surrounding whether it actually aids in the cooking process. Personally, I often do it because that's how I learned to prepare them and I'm a creature of habit.


Take a pairing knife and cut a small X at the top of each Brussels sprout. This will (supposedly) help to ensure a more even and slightly faster cooking time. Does it really make a difference? I honestly couldn't say and it's not keeping me up at night.

5. Steam (about 8 minutes) or boil (about 6 minutes) the veggies until tender. I prefer steaming to help preserve all the healthy stuff.*




6. Now you can cut off the stem or base of the cooked sprout, and then slice them in half (or in slices, depending on your preference).


Now what to do with them...

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts w/Toasted Walnuts
inspired by Just A Taste, Ithaca NY

about 1 pound of fresh Brussels sprouts
6 cloves of garlic, minced
½ Tbsp olive oil
2/3 cup walnut pieces
½ Tbsp butter
2 oz grated Parmesan or Asiago cheese
salt and black pepper to taste

1. Prepare the Brussels sprouts (as directed above) by cooking until tender and halving. Be careful not to overcook, as this tends to bring out stronger, more unpleasant flavors.

2. In a large frying pan or wok, add the olive oil and cook the garlic for 1-2 minutes, add the walnuts and cook for another minute.

3. Add the Brussels sprouts and butter to the pan and sauté until lightly brown, about five minutes.

4. Either sprinkle the vegetables with grated cheese and serve immediately, or sprinkle with cheese and broil until cheese is melted.

*Eat your Brussels sprouts, they're good for you. They’ve got lots of vitamin C and K, as well as a respectable amount of vitamin A and protein.

Road Trip: Mendocino

A few weeks ago the wife and I decided to explore a little more of the coast and took a weekend trip out to Mendocino, CA. A little over 3 hours north of the East Bay, the trip is somewhat long, with the last 50 mile stretch twisting and turning through small towns and giant redwoods. Basically that means you get a scenic view that you can't really enjoy if you get motion sickness: enter me and the dog. In fact, this was our first away-from-home vacation with our canine companion. Our dog Nacho is old and she has more than a few health problems, so when we started packing for the weekend, it turned out she'd need her own “doggie” bag. And by bag I mean full-sized duffel. We needed to take her treats, food, water, towels, treats, poo bags, omega supplements, doggie wipes, leash, treats, and do we need to take the medicated skin spray? Oh, we she bring it just in case. Oh my god, I thought, it's like having a child. (Mental note: reason #354 not to have children.)

So off we went with our dog and her bag of supplies to our pup-friendly bed and breakfast. We chose the Inn at Schoolhouse Creek specifically because it allow your dog to stay in the room with you. They even provide a box of pet supplies including food and water bowls and towels, and they have an off-leash dog meadow. The B&B itself consists of a number of small buildings, many of which were old mill-workers' houses from the early 20th century that were later converted into guest rooms. It's a great place to spend a weekend doing absolutely nothing.

Now if your next question is “what is there to do in Mendocino?” well it is an excellent question indeed. Not a whole lot. If you're the outdoor type, it makes for a great trip in the right weather. Hiking and kayaking are the two main activities you will not have a shortage of and there are plenty of state parks to choose from, as well as some scenic areas with decent trails. Then prepare to retire to your room and watch a VHS copy of Jurassic Park.


Downtown Mendocino is...quaint. It's a small town filled with an odd assortment of shops including a grocery store, several coffee shops, and a pub filled with lots of real-tree wearin' locals. My big question of course was, what's to eat? Most of our dinner options, aside from fine dining (which Mendocino has plenty of) were in Fort Bragg, about a 15 minute drive north. The downtown area hosts a number of shops and restaurants, including a pizza joint popular with the locals that was recommended by our host at the B&B. Aside from that (again, not including the surplus of fine dining establishments in my assessment) I found there to be a lack of food that was both reasonably priced and tasty. I think next time our plans will include picking up some chow for a picnic in the room rather than venturing out for a bite.

Piaci

A local favorite, this tiny pizza joint has limited seating. On the upside, it has a pleasant, intimate atmosphere. They have an impressive selection of local beer on tap, hosting your west coast staples like Rogue, Trumer Pils, Laguanitas, and Pyramid, as well as some harder to find brews like Moonlight Brewing's Death and Taxes and Moylan's Kilt Lifter scotch ale. They've dubbed themselves home of the “adult” pizza, serving up thin crust, artisan style pies. We tried the farmer's pizza with sausage, caramelized onion, and cheese and a Cesar salad (that arrives sporting real anchovy) and it was delicious. I can see why the innkeeper goes there several times a week. Cheesy delicious pizza + strong beer = happy food coma.

A Few Stops on the Way Home

So on the drive home, I was lamenting our serious lack of culinary adventure. I was also looking to break our curvy drive back down to the main Hwy into smaller sections. As though we needed an excuse to taste wine, you can throw in the fact that we hadn't tried any wines from the region yet, and stopping at least once became mandatory. From my brief reading about Mendocino County at the B&B, it's purported to be one of the greenest wine growing areas in the country.

Husch Winery and Vineyards

We were picking a winery at random (as we almost always do), and this one caught my eye because we'd seen brochures for them at our B&B that mentioned them as a dog friendly spot. The tasting room at Husch is small, and the staff is very friendly and helpful. We tasted a selection of their wines, with our favorites being the Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (my personal favorite), the Pinot Noir, and the Sauvignon Blanc. They also sell half-bottles for...get this...about half the cost of a regular bottle of wine. They earned major points for that one. The winery is family owned and operated, and like many in the region, they're also a “green” business. Their goals for sustainability:

1) reduce erosion, 2) conserve resources such as water and fuel, 3) protect the natural ecosystems that border theirproperty, and 4) use organic chemicals.

They even have sheep that meander through their vineyards helping out with the weeds and occasionally fertilizing. Environmentally friendly wine=drink more!

Anderson Valley Brewing Company

Speaking of drinking to sustainability, let's talk about beer brewed by solar power. I can't think of too many things more awesome than solar beer, although solar whiskey comes to mind. For extra awesomeness (no, not whiskey) the AVB mascot is a bear with deer antlers, a Beer, if you will, whose name is Barkley. And if you plan to stop in, you should know that the brewery is easy to miss, because even if you're on the lookout for it, you'll probably get distracted by a wee heard of pygmy goats that occupy the corner land next to the road where you turn to get there. If you see tiny goats, you're in the right place.

My favorites:

Boont Extra Special Bitter
Poleeko Gold Pale Ale (the canned version)

p.s. Barkley the beer would probably want me to advise you to get a flight at the tasting room, and maybe even try one of their new homemade sodas.

Wild Mushroom Risotto With Shaved Black Truffle

There are a lot of options in the Bay Area for snagging mushrooms more exciting than cremini. Berkeley Bowl, Rainbow Grocery, Far West Fungi (in the Ferry building), to name a few, and one place that we discovered recently, Monterey Market. They've got a huge selection of wild mushrooms, and a even a few containers of black truffles from Oregon, in just the right size so as to be affordable. We stocked up on shiitake and hedgehog mushrooms, and also selected a small black truffle to make a simple risotto. For a little extra creaminess, try stirring in a small amount of mild cheese such as fontina. Enjoy your umami.

Wild Mushroom Risotto With Black Truffle

1 Tbsp olive oil
1 cup of leek, sliced
4 cups of sliced wild/mixed mushrooms
1 ¼ cup arborio rice
½ cup dry white wine
4 cups vegetable or beef stock
½ tsp kosher salt
black pepper
fontina cheese
black truffle shaved
and/or black truffle oil

1. In a medium sized pot saute leeks in olive oil for about 6-8 minutes or until just tender. Add mushrooms, and saute for another 5 minutes, adding a little extra olive oil or butter if needed.

2. Add the rice and stir for about one minute, then add the white wine, stirring until absorbed.

3. Begin adding the stock to the rice mixture a little at a time, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is absorbed. Continue adding until all the stock is used. This should take about 20-25 minutes on low heat.

4. Next add salt and pepper, then stir in a little cheese if desired. Dish into bowls and top with very thin shavings of black truffle. If you don't have a truffle slicer/shaver, use a very sharp pairing knife. And if you don't have truffles, try drizzling a little truffle oil over the risotto before serving. Or you can go all out and use both.